If your extensions are starting to feel stiff, dry, or not quite as soft as they used to, the problem might not be your technique – it might be your products.
The truth is, not every shampoo, conditioner, or treatment that works for natural hair works for extensions. In fact, some of the most popular “repair” products on the market can quietly ruin the look, feel, and longevity of your investment.
Let’s talk about how to choose the right products for your extensions – and which ones to skip – so you can keep your hair soft, shiny, and full of life.
Why Extensions Need Different Care
Your extensions aren’t connected to your scalp, which means they don’t get your body’s natural oils to protect and hydrate them.
That natural oil – called sebum – is what keeps your real hair soft and flexible. Without it, extensions dry out faster and can lose their shine or even start to break.
So while your natural hair might love a strengthening or protein-packed mask, your extensions need something very different.
They need moisture, not “strength.”
Think of it like leather shoes: if you only polish them but never moisturize them, they start to crack. Extensions are similar – they need constant hydration to stay supple.
Protein Isn’t Always Your Friend
Protein is one of the most misunderstood ingredients in hair care.
It’s not bad – it just needs to be used correctly.
Protein helps rebuild and strengthen natural hair that’s been damaged by chemicals or heat. But your extensions? They don’t have that living inner structure to rebuild.
Imagine overcooking pasta. When it’s cooked just right, it’s soft and flexible. But when it’s overdone, it becomes stiff and breaks apart easily. That’s exactly what happens to extensions when they get too much protein – they lose elasticity and snap.
This is called protein overload, and it’s one of the most common causes of stiff, crunchy extensions.
The Difference Between Protein and Bond Builders
There’s another product category that often confuses people: bond builders.
Bond-building products like Olaplex or K18 are designed to reconnect broken bonds inside damaged natural hair. They’re amazing for hair that’s been lightened or chemically processed – but extensions don’t work that way.
Extensions can’t “rebuild” internal bonds because they’re no longer living fibers. Instead of repairing them, bond builders can over-strengthen them, leaving the hair feeling coarse and resistant to moisture.
Here’s the bottom line:
- Protein and bond builders are amazing for damaged natural hair.
- But for extensions, they can be too strong.
If your extensions start to feel rough or tangly after using these types of products, it’s a sign they’re overloaded.
Ingredients to Watch Out For
Here’s a simple guide to ingredients that can cause problems – especially when used near the bond or weft line.
Avoid or Use Sparingly
- Sulfates (SLS, SLES): Strong detergents that strip moisture from the hair.
- Drying Alcohols (alcohol denat, SD alcohol, isopropyl): Evaporate quickly and pull hydration out with them.
- Heavy Oils (coconut, argan, castor): Can loosen bonds and weigh down extensions.
- Thick Silicones (dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane): Can coat the hair, causing dullness or buildup.
- Clarifying Shampoos: Great once in a while, but overuse leads to dryness.
Instead, Look For
- Moisturizing ingredients: Aloe, panthenol, glycerin, and triglycerides help restore softness.
- Lightweight conditioners: Designed to detangle without coating the hair.
- Sulfate-free cleansers: Gently remove dirt while leaving moisture behind.
- Heat protectants and hydrating leave-ins: Prevent dryness and keep extensions silky.
Why Reading Labels Can Be Tricky
If you’ve ever flipped a bottle around to read the ingredients, you know it can be overwhelming.
And here’s the truth – reading a label isn’t as black and white as people make it sound.
An ingredient that might be harsh on its own can actually be gentle when blended correctly. It all depends on the balance, concentration, and chemistry of the entire formula.
For example, sodium lauryl sulfate can be drying, but when paired with milder cleansing agents, it can be balanced. The formula matters more than the ingredient in isolation.
So rather than memorizing what to avoid, focus on how your hair feels after washing and styling.
Tactile Signs That Your Extensions Need Help
You can often feel when something’s wrong long before you can see it.
Here’s how to tell what your extensions are trying to say:
- Stiff, crunchy, or brittle? Too much protein or not enough moisture.
- Gummy or sticky? Product buildup or residue.
- Squeaky when wet? Over-cleansed or stripped of moisture.
- Soft, smooth, flexible? That’s the sweet spot — your balance is perfect.
Your hands are one of your best tools for maintaining healthy extensions.
The Perfect Extension Routine
Keeping your extensions healthy doesn’t require a dozen products – just the right ones.
Here’s a simple, stylist-approved routine:
- Cleanse gently with a sulfate-free shampoo, focusing on the scalp.
- Condition mid-lengths to ends with a lightweight, protein-free conditioner.
- Mask once a week with moisture-rich ingredients like aloe or panthenol.
- Use a leave-in spray for daily hydration and detangling.
- Add a drop of oil only to the ends. Never apply oils or heavy serums to the weft or bonds.
Remember – extensions are like luxury fabric. They last longer and look better when treated gently and hydrated often.
How IBE® Stylists Protect Their Work
At IBE®, our extensions are prepped to perform best in moisture-balanced conditions.
And inside IBE® Certification, stylists learn exactly how to identify product chemistry and create aftercare plans for each client – because no two heads of hair are the same.
Your stylist isn’t just installing your extensions – they’re customizing your care routine, ingredient by ingredient, so your investment lasts.
The Bottom Line
Extensions thrive on hydration, gentle cleansing, and balanced care.
When in doubt, skip the “repair” labels and reach for something that says “hydrate,” “nourish,” or “moisture.”
Stylists – keep learning the science behind product chemistry inside IBE® Certification.
Clients – find your certified stylist through the IBE® Stylist Locator and ask them to review your home care routine.
Because great hair doesn’t happen by accident – it happens by understanding what’s in your products.
Disclaimer:
This content is for educational purposes only and reflects general best practices for hair extension care. Clients should always follow their stylist’s professional guidance, and stylists should refer to the manufacturer of the hair they purchase for brand-specific recommendations.
